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FAQ

1) Special Order(s)* Information: 25% down payment on each item/part. Rest due/Remainder including shipping after we receive & inspect each item/part. Down payment not refundable under any circumstance.

1a) Sp. Order Rest Due/Remainder Info: You have (14) days to pay starting on the day we notify you by email (in writing). No payment - no part. Starting on the (15) day @ 7:00AM CST, that Sp. Order part is available for purchase by any other interested party.

1b) Any unforeseen difficulty paying the Rest Due/Remainder: Please call and leave a message as soon as possible.

Term
"Special Order(s)"*, "Sp. Order" - Out of stock or current non-stock part in our inventory that is available for purchase.



Tips, Tricks & Information!


You're going get a completely honest, sometimes 100% blunt answer(s) grounded in real knowledge, experience & common sense. Some of this information is to head you off at the pass before you may find yourself in trouble. Trouble of course that requires $$$$, Time, Labor & Parts.

Table of Contents:
Questions
Important Info
Pronunciation help

Question List:
1. Hard to start/XX amount of kicks
2. Will not start + no matter what
3. How do you know if you need Crank seals
4. Running backwards
5.  What is "NOT" restored
6. Coating(s)
7.  Tank sealing
8. Powdercoating
9. Engine rebuild (after the fact)


Q 1) [Bultaco] My Bultaco is hard to start and/or it takes XX amount kicks before it will start.
A) Do you have good spark? > Yes > Is fuel exiting the carb into the engine? > Yes > You probably need crankshaft seals

B) Do you have good spark? > No > Investigation needed > 1st Disconnect kill button > Do you have good spark? > Yes > still takes XXX kicks to start? > Yes > Do you have fuel entering the engine? > Yes > You probably need crankshaft seals + a kill button

Q 2 ) [Bultaco] My Bultaco will not start no matter what!
A) Do you have spark? > No? > Disconnect kill button > try again > do you have spark? > Yes! > did it actual fire up & is running? > Yes! > You need a new kill button

B) Do you have spark? > No? > Disconnect kill button > try again > do you have spark? > Yes! > did it actual fire up & is running? > No! > Do you have fuel entering the engine? > No? > Check you carb/fuel line & petcock for clogs > Do you have fuel now? > Yes! > Are you running? > Yes! > You need a new kill button
Q 2.2) [Bultaco] My Bultaco will not start no matter what! I have spark & I have fuel entering the engine. What is going on!!

Disconnect kill button > try starting > Did it start? > Yes > You need a kill button

Did it start? > No > You have more than one problem going on
#1 Crank seals, #2 Kill button, #3 Grounding or intermittent grounding in the starting circuit, #4 other required seals for starting!

#3 is important if you have an early bike with lights. btw "early" does not mean prior to '69!

Q 3) [Bultaco} How do you know if crankshaft seals are needed?

Definitive: By doing a correct crankcase pressure test
Other ways: Feels dry or look dry
                        Look old
                        Crumbly or chipped

Q) [Bultaco] My Bultaco is running backwards, what gives? It was working just fine before and/or My mechanic just worked on it and he does great work.

If you are local see our service here:  Bultaco Running Backwards Repair
Yes, you MUST PAY for the work/service. Non-negotiable.

Q) [Bultaco] What does NOT constitute "restored", "fully restored", "ground up fully restored", "restoration", "restored to factory" or any other variation/combination?
1) Powdercoat/Powdercoating anything
2) Tanking sealing
3) Engine coating
4) Decals - missing, wrong includes location
5) "insert here make/model" Jap or other swapped in fenders, bars, fork parts or anything else
6) Seat. Wrong seat for the model, wrong parts used in rebuilding an original correct model seat, seat from something completely different
7) Obviously missing ANY of the following or old rotted falling apart or swapped or bodged something:  Kick rubber, gearshift rubber, grips, fork boots, airbox boot(s), exhaust rubber boot(s), cylinder vibration rubbers, side cover/fender/tank rubber washers
8) Old rear chain. Bonus points for rust or heavy wear.
9) Exhaust Pipe/Muffler. Grr...
10) Excessively long cables. Uh.. 6+ inches meets that definition. We've seen 2 ft.
11) Wrong fenders
12) Does not run. Up to date Video evidence required.
13) Hot Rod Proof of engine rebuild. Google if you don't get

Little more exotic:
Fenders installed backwards
Shocks installed upside down
Excessively long shocks, ie frame has to bent/broken + rewelded to accommodate

Q: [Bultaco] Engine is ceramic coated (completely or partially) or other non-removable coatings.  That's great isn't it?

Congrats! You have now destroyed your engine and rendered all coated components completely unusable!

Ceramic coating CANNOT be removed. It does nothing for the Bultaco engine which operates on a wet sump/constant lube at tight tolerances. IE all parts need oil touching them, coating them, soaking them or impregnating them (to use factory terminology).

I hope you have a conversation with whomever talked you into it. If you Don't get? Please step away from the engine and go do something else.

Q) [Bultaco] I have a sealed tank. Or sealed my tank just like I heard or was told. Ain't that great?

Coating does not fix, solve or prevent any problems. Most all the tanks are made out of fiberglass, except for some of the early made out of metal and last made from plastic.

Congrats you may have destroyed your fiberglass tank! The coatings cannot be removed without major damage or complete destruction.

The coatings are for METAL tanks and tell you NOT to use them on FIBERGLASS tanks.

To properly fix FIBERGLASS tank they have to be split at the mold mating point by someone with REAL fiberglass training. IE Aerospace/Aviation, Marine, Defense, Industry, etc. Very easy to damage or destroy if you have no or little experience. Other words, don't have a clue!

Next step is use the proper materials, resins and methodologies to repair and build your tank back up.

Q) [Bultaco] My frame is powdercoated. Or I powdercoated my frame just like I heard(was told).

No. Congratulations. It does not add ANY value. In fact it detracts value. Significantly in some cases.

You may have damaged or may induce damage removing/fixing this issue. It takes more $$$, Time & Labor  to powdercoat/remove then properly painting in the 1st place.

Q) [Bultaco] I got my engine rebuilt or my engine came rebuilt.
You have documentation (complete) for the work & replaced parts in writing. Correct? If you have nothing or sometime that says "engine rebuild" or some such variation, we would NOT recommend starting/running the engine.

Documentation Must Include:
A) what the liner was bored to in 2 decimal places or better (.01, .003, etc)
B) what size piston went in
C) the exact clearance set between the piston that went in and liner wall

Plus (very important!):
A) Rod clearance between each flywheel half (exact)
B) Crankshaft out of round measurements + tilt (has to be square & parallel)
C) what the points gap was set at (engine must run)
D) what timing was set at (EXACT measurement + location)
E) what spark plug was used (brand + model)

Q) [Bultaco] What's deal with you harping on spark plugs? Any old thing works, I heard (told).

Bultacos don't use the same plug. It is well documented in the owner's manuals. Cross reference charts confirm.
You can damage or destroy your engine with the wrong spark plug.

Q) [Bultaco] Why do you talk about check your rear chain before starting?

Okay. It's simple. Worn, Heavily worn, Dry as the desert, Rusty, heavily rusted or frozen solid chain can do some damage & destruction when you exceed the operating capabilities.  Frozen chain does not free up when you start the bike!

What happens: You stop very quickly.
What can get broken: Magneto cover, main case, kick start mechanism, your foot/leg/body, etc
Q) [Bultaco] Something's not right with my clutch
answer: coming soon


Q) [Bultaco] Why can't I shift gears or I go into the wrong gear?
answer: coming soon nutshell: rebuilt improperly/incorrectly - rebuilder incorrectly reassembled or rebuilt + incorrectly setting clearances


Important Info:

  • Bultacos are ID'D by the MODEL #, not year or the generic model! The MODEL # is on the frame steering head + the engine.  Parts Only Fit by MODEL #.  Also, the complete # tells you the year it was available (roughly), & number it was off the line.
  • Bultaco had several ignitions over the years.
    • FEMSA Points, FEMSA encapsulated coils (early cdi), Motoplat and Motoplat points.
  • Bultaco used many different carburetors.
    • Zenith, IRZ, Amal Monobloc, Amal Concentric MKI, Amal Concentric MKII and Bing.
  • Bultaco used many different handlebars.
    • Clip-On, Open wide stance (miscalled "Trials bars"), Wide stance w/cross piece chromed, Smaller stance w/cross piece chromed and smaller stance w/cross piece in black.
  • Bultaco used many different front axles.
  • Bultaco used many different rear axles.
  • Bultaco used at least 4 different swing -arm bolts + bushings combinations.
  • Bultaco's used different rear drive chain. This is important to know when ordering sprockets, chain, etc.
    • 428 = 1/2"/ 520 = 5/8"
  • Bultaco used many different rims. Akront started labeling into the rim about 1978 with size, origin, date of manufacture.
    • Steel-Chromed 16"/17"/18"/19"/21"
    • Akront-High Shoulder 17"/18"/19"/21"
    • Akront-Low Shoulder 17"/18"/20"/21"
  • Bultaco forks came many different sizes with different internal dampening mechanisms. Most All made by Betor. Can't confirm the Metralla.
    • Betor-27mm/28mm/30mm/35mm/38mm
  • Bultaco used different quantities of oil in fork(s) by the Bultaco MODEL # & Betor size.
  • Bultaco used different quantities of oil in the engine by Bultaco MODEL #.
  • Bultaco even used oil in the swing-arm in different quantities by Bultaco MODEL # or grease by MODEL #.

Tips


If you don't want to do any of these, make sure you take hot dogs with you when go riding.


#1 Before starting your Bul - Make sure Oil is in the Primary/Clutch & Engine. Then squirt oil down the spark plug hole for the piston!

Before starting your Bul - check the air filter! Do you have one, what is the condition, is it oiled, etc? You do not want rotted filter particles in the carb or the engine.

Before starting your Bul - check your fuel line. This includes the tank cross over line!

Before starting your Bul - check the rear chain. Is it rusted? Heavily worn?

Before starting your Bul - is the exhaust secure @ the cylinder? You don't want it to fall off or back out.

Before starting your Bul - does the the throttle turn freely & back closed?

Before starting your Bul - use the handle bars to rotate your steering. Are there any catches, bumps, thumps, restrictions, etc?


To help in conversation:

               There are many, many, different regional & local speaking variances in the USA. Below should give you a starting point to  practice with.

Betor is pronounced BUH-tor. Euro romantic roll/lilt optional. Not BAY-TER or BAY-TOR

Joresa is pronounced HO[A]R-RESA. The J is pronounced similar to Mexicans saying "Jesus".

Akront is pronounced ACK-RONT "Akront" - like it says on the tin

Pursang is pronounced with a U, not an E. PUR-SANG  [PURR]

Alpina is pronounced AL-PE[E]-NA[H] "Alpina". Not AL-PINE or AL-PINE-AH

Campera is pronounced CAM-PEAR-A[H]

Frontera is pronounced FRON-TER-A[H] or FRON-TER[R]A "Frontera" - like it says on the tin

Lobito is pronounced LOW-BE[E]-TO "Lobito"

Matador is pronounced MAT-A[H]-DO[O]R "Matador"

Mercurio is pronounced MER-CUR[E]-EO "Mercurio"

Sherpa is pronounced SURE-PA or S[H]URE- PA - low h. Not SHARE-PA (Sheriff)